Now that I'm no longer in Korea, I'll probably be using this blog instead.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Andong - Tuesday & Wednesday, August 15 & 16

I arrived in Andong and spent a couple hours wandering around because the bus terminal moved to the opposite end of the city sometime after my book was published. Eventually, I figured out where I was and found a motel in which to sleep. The main reason I came to Andong was to visit Hahoe Folk Village, which is about an hour by bus. The line was long so some Koreans at the front grabbed me to make sure I made it on. It was a hot and crowded bus ride.
Despite the gray, I managed to avoid any rain.
As a souvenir obsessed traveler, my first stop was the shopping area. Hahoe is known for it's masks and the Hahoe Maskdance Drama. It was a originally a sort of shamanistic ritual in times of poverty or sickness. The masks were parodies of the societal elites: nobles, monks, etc. and worn to mock the hoity-toities during the performances. I purchases these husband and wife aristocrats as well as a small one and a marionette for Naomi.

I then discovered that I wasn't actually in the village, yet. I now had to walk 15 minutes to the village (or take a bus). On the way, I spotted this shrine which I recognized as loves gods...
...replicas of one's I had purchased in Buyeo.
Hahoe is a folk village in which a traditional lifestyle is preserved.




It was a bit disconcerting to see the Coke car drive by...a bit atraditional, but people gotta drink.
I had a map with me, to see the specific landmarks, but I saw a sign for the local church, so headed their first. It was set a bit back and away from where most people were touring.




Then, back to the main area of the village. There are homes where people live, but are also several buildings designated as historical landmarks. I found them largely uninteresting compared to what is currently in use.



In the center of the village is this 600-year-old zelkova, which they call Samsindang or "Shrine of Three Gods". I don't know the broader meaning of the tradition, but it is believed that a god or gods live in this tree. Visitors tie prayers or wishes around it and every year the people of the village perform a ritual hear to pray for peace.
It is patched with some sort of rubbery substance (I know nothing of tree preservation).
Visitors also leave money out front. I assume it uses the money to buy more Coke.
I didn't get many pictures of people, but I saw the people from the bus a number of times and they were very nice. Another woman asked me if I wanted to have my picture taken. As I was wondering around met a family and we walked a ways together. Parents love to have their children practice their English with foreigners.













Saw two separate groups of crackers here, but most tourists were Korean.













Back near the gift area, I went to the Hahoe Mask Museum which is dedicated to masks from around the world.








A bus back to Andong and I was finished, ready for my next stop and once again loaded with too much stuff.

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